ABOUT
Alan's Welcome
I’m excited to introduce Watts Rocks, my company dedicated to climbing at Oregon’s Smith Rock. I’ve been fortunate enough to witness firsthand the remarkable rise of Smith Rock from an unknown backwater to an international climbing destination. And I’ve been part of the birth and explosive growth of sport climbing – indoors and out – throughout the United States. I am grateful to be part of the history of such an amazing climbing area.
When I first climbed at Smith Rock as a 14-year-old in 1975, I never imagined the hold these magnificent crags would have on my life. Growing up in nearby Madras, I was the fourth generation in my family to visit Smith Rock; my great-grandparents hiked along the Crooked River in the early 1900s. In the 1950s, my dad first climbed at Smith; a few years later he brought me into the park for the first time, carrying me on his back until I could stand on my own two feet. From these early seeds, Watts Rocks was born.
Through Watts Rocks, I’m hoping to share the experiences of generations of pioneers with today’s climbers. I hope to connect with as many climbers as possible, whether through personalized climbing experiences at Smith Rock and the climbing gym, through mentoring, or by sharing my writings, archives, guidebook, and video experiences.
Alan Watts
ABOUT
Alan Watts a legendary pioneer climber whose passion and dedication turned a small outcrop of basalt into an iconic destination for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts worldwide. His name is Alan Watts, and he is the man who put Smith Rock on the map.
Alan's journey started in Skinners Butte Columns, located near the heart of Eugene, Oregon, where he made a life-changing decision to get good at climbing. He arrived in Eugene to attend the University of Oregon and live with his best friend and roommate, Bill Ramsey. But, unlike most freshmen still figuring out their course of study, Alan's focus was clear - to master the basalt columns just two miles from their dorm.
Climbing had always been a part of Alan's life. His father climbed, and Smith Rock was a frequent hiking destination. Alan was already climbing at Smith by fourteen with his high school buddies Pat Carr and Randy Hagen. They taught themselves how to climb by working through all the accessible routes, both the classics and the death traps. Alan was mesmerized by the first free ascent of Shoes of the Fisherman by Jeff Thomas, memorized the guidebook, and dreamed about climbing every night.
Alan was already climbing at Smith by fourteen with his high school buddies Pat Carr and Randy Hagen. They taught themselves how to climb by working through all the accessible routes, both the classics and the death traps. Alan was mesmerized by the first free ascent of Shoes of the Fisherman by Jeff Thomas, memorized the guidebook, and dreamed about climbing every night.
With his above-average physical talent and fingers that could hold onto just about anything, Alan lacked the drive to push himself until he started climbing with Bill Ramsey as a high school junior. Little did they know that they were about to embark on a journey that would change the face of American climbing forever. It was the emergence of sport climbing, and Alan was at the forefront of a revolution.
Alan was among the first climbers to embrace sport climbing when it emerged between 1980 and 1986. Alan would go on to change the course of history at Smith Rock and elsewhere, motivating a generation of climbers to push the bounds of what was feasible.
As a pioneering climber, Alan witnessed an extraordinary evolution of the sport and traditional climbing at Smith Rock. It's been amazing to see how this unique location has been. By the mid-80s, Alan and his climbing partners had established a number of challenging new routes at Smith Rock, which became popular among local climbers. They started bolting new routes and pioneering a new style of climbing that focused on gymnastic movements, powerful sequences, and technical footwork. They also started using sticky rubber shoes and lightweight gear, which allowed them to climb faster and more efficiently.
Traditional climbing was still the dominant style at the time, and many traditional climbers saw sport climbing as a threat to their way of life. But Alan and his friends believed that sport climbing was the future of the sport, and they continued to push the boundaries of what was possible.
In 1986, Alan and Bill Ramsey published the first guidebook to Smith Rock, which included many routes they had established. The guidebook became an instant classic, and it helped to popularize the sport of climbing and put Smith Rock on the map as a world-class climbing destination.
Over the years, Alan remained an active climber and a passionate advocate for the sport. He wrote numerous articles and guidebooks and gave lectures and presentations to inspire and educate other climbers. He also became involved in conservation efforts and worked to protect Smith Rock from overuse and development.
Smith Rock Pioneer
In 1986, Alan and Bill Ramsey published the first guidebook to Smith Rock, which included many routes they had established. The guidebook became an instant classic, and it helped to popularize the sport of climbing and put Smith Rock on the map as a world-class climbing destination.
Over the years, Alan remained an active climber and a passionate advocate for the sport. He wrote numerous articles and guidebooks and gave lectures and presentations to inspire and educate other climbers. He also became involved in conservation efforts and worked to protect Smith Rock from overuse and development.
Today, Smith Rock is one of the most popular climbing areas in the world, with thousands of climbers visiting every year to test their skills on its challenging routes. And Alan Watts is still remembered as a pioneer and a legend whose passion and dedication helped to shape the sport of climbing and inspire generations of climbers to come.
Jim Ramsey, a pioneer climber, shared, "I've witnessed an extraordinary evolution of the sport and traditional climbing at Smith Rock. It's been amazing to see how this unique location has become a mecca for climbers and non-climbers alike. And at the forefront of this transformation is the one and only Alan Watts.
Alan's name is synonymous with Smith Rock, and for a good reason. He's not just a climber, he's a writer, and his devotion and passion for the sport and the park are unparalleled. His contributions have helped turn Smith Rock into an iconic destination for Oregonians and visitors worldwide.
Alan's legacy is not just a climber's guide but a testament to the profound impact of a person's passion on a special place. Smith Rock owes its status to Alan's tireless dedication and unwavering commitment to his craft.
So let's take a moment to celebrate the man who put Smith Rock on the map and recognize the countless climbers and outdoor enthusiasts who continue to be inspired by his work. Alan Watts, we thank you for your incredible contributions to the world of sport climbing and for helping to make Smith Rock a truly unforgettable destination."
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